A journey of relaxation, gastronomy, nature and adventure.
The splendid Costa Vicentina contemplates about 400kms of land, from Santiago do Cacém to Lagos, with relaxing landscapes that plague us with their grandeur. Ideal to free our mind from everyday evils, this paradise in the West of Portugal leaves us surrendered to the strong presence of wild nature.
In this report of my trip, I come to share with the reader an experience of 5 days spent in the Portuguese Southwest. A trip that translated, above all, into a rediscovery of the passion for my homeland, a trip to the memories of a young girl and an evocation of the possibility of absorbing unique and different experiences traveling through Portugal.
First of all, let us clarify that this is not a guide for people in a hurry, since I covered about 100kms of the length of the coast and ¾ were left to be done. Let’s say it was not possible for me to discover the formula for visiting its completeness in 5 days, since to do so, I would either feel indifferent and insensitive to what my eyes saw, or I would have to recover quickly from the shock effect caused by the views.
For me, part of an authentic and sustainable tourism is in the planning of the route – without overexploiting the places on the internet, in order to prevent the surprise effect from fading in situ -, in the preference for a reception with open arms at the people’s home. , and, finally, in the choice of typical taverns and snack bars in the region. But let us start this journey north – south.
I see myself leaving the city of Porto through the mirror of my old car, offered by grandfather Nani. I embark early in the morning, on an adventure in search of the unknown, Atlantic serenity and emptying my mind with a suitcase full of snacks and half a dozen fresh clothes from June. After 3h45m of travel, we make (p.: I came with my better half!) A pit stop at the most western point of Continental Europe, Cabo da Roca. From here, we can see the Serra de Sintra over the coast, while holding our hats against the wind. The munchies and the desire to drink a “blonde” invade us, that is, it is time to open hostilities inside the car, facing the sea – Oh! How beautiful it is to enjoy a simple sandwich and a beer in this place)!
He secretly tells me that we have a spectacular “trail” of adventure to do next door, at Praia da Ursa. I knew that this route, which each one has to do in their own way, would not be for everyone (a fact that I confirmed when I landed there). The path is steep and is made between rocks, boulders and nettles, but we know it pays off as soon as we get down there, and we feel small in front of those rocks shaped by coastal erosion. The most beautiful natural stone sculpture is Ursa, a rock shaped like this animal.
Resuming the road to Alcácer do Sal, we stayed in one of the largest estates in the country, which belonged to the State at the time of Oliveira Salazar. With infinite hectares, we stayed at the home of the caretakers, who told us stories of their lives while they cooked us dinner. We then went for a night walk along the bank of the Sado River and came across a popular party, where we drank for the first time a renowned gin of Alentejo origin – the Black Pig.
We wake up with a wonderful breakfast at the table and Mr. João asks us for permission to take a picture in front of the house. A photograph that he insisted on sending us later, in the hope that we would never forget them and return one day.
We then proceeded to Sines, more precisely, Praia de São Torpes, where the waters were, at the time, heated by the Power Station located in front of the beach (meanwhile disabled), which made us stay longer “soaking”. We had some snacks from the sea: squids and prawns with a beer to accompany. It’s time to head further south.
“There was a peach tree on the island
Planted by a Vizier of Odemira
Who say for love killed himself again
Here, instead of… ”
Do you know where we are? Porto Côvo, of course. Fishermen’s place with a predominance of whites and blues, where the old doors turn red. We appreciate those imposing cliffs that bring us the feeling of wanting to stay forever in that calm, and we end the day with a handmade ice cream. We installed ourselves in a large house with nine rooms, which we shared with other travelers to whom we said “hello” from the leaning balconies.
The next day, I only thought about seeing the Ilha do Pessegueiro, we spent all morning sunbathing and contemplating the view to the Island. We had lunch at the A Ilha Restaurant, mouth-watering snails, with roasted Alentejo bread for the delicacy sauce.
We left the island and left for Vila Nova de Milfontes, the memories here are a lot of fun and happy stomach. At Tasca do Celso we had a few clams in the tavern, some black pork plumes and a pepper steak. When we leave the restaurant, we are attracted by the sound of Rock that hovers in the square, full of people jumping and applauding a talented garage band.
A new day dawns and we pass by Praia do Carvalhal to appreciate the cliffs from the highest point and we could see from the side of a road a farm with an impressive variety of animals, including ostriches, horses, llamas, and a specimen similar to wildebeest. We then arrived, to another trail on the private beach of Amália, which is at the back of your Herdade. And, heading to Azenha do Mar just for a snack at Bar do Palhinhas.
After settling in a typical house in the area, very authentic, in Odeceixe, we went to the center for dinner at the Chaparro Restaurant, some black pork rojões with sweet potatoes, a fish pasta with prawns and, to go with it, a bottle of house red.
To end the night, we took a nice walk to the famous Moinho de Odeceixe. And here, for the farewell, I just let myself be carried away by the silence of the heights and the starry sky that I observe, already longing for it, lying on a stone bench older than I am.
*Written by Catarina Campos
